PVC Pig Waterer DIY
If you have ever had a pig on your place, then you know how much they love to wallow in mud. Pigs love it so much they will dump their drinking water over to enjoy the fun of wallowing. The problem- they have no water to drink, except the muddy stuff. The muddy water seems to suit the pigs fine, but as a person who wants to provide the best for the animals in my care, it doesn’t suit me.
The challenge is that pigs are so strong that they can flip a trough weighing hundreds of pounds like it was a marshmallow. The choices you are left with is securing a concrete water trough that is about as heavy as the Titanic or going with an automatic system.
The concrete waterer is not an option because:
1. Because my husband refuses to move anything that heavy without a tractor and we don’t have a tractor.
2. I like to move the pigs around to till new ground for me and we don’t have a tractor.
So, that left us with an automatic type of waterer.
There are several ways of using automatic waterers, but again because I want to be able to move the pens around, I decided on a PVC type waterer. I have seen these many times at livestock shows made out of green PVC and being about 2 1/2 feet tall and about 4 inches in diameter. The pigs bite the water valve and water flows out. When the pig stops biting on the valve the water stops. This means that a pig’s pen can be kept dry if needed.
The waters are wired into the corner of the pen eliminating the pig from being able to flip it over. I do not have any intention of denying our pig the joy of wallowing in mud, so I will fill the hole dug by said pig with water just for fun.
In the following pictures, you will notice that my pipe is not green but white. Also, I chose the heaviest grade of pipe available, 8 inches in diameter and 5 feet in length. This is because I do not want to fill this everyday and I thought the heavy grade pipe would have a longer life as pigs can be very rough. The water valves were purchased at our feed store but sometimes these can be hard to find but you can order them here. The other supplies came from the local hardware store. I purchased a 10 ft piece of pipe and had the store cut it into 2 pieces along with 2 caps to fit each pipe. All total I spent about $55.00 and will have two waterers when done.
To construct a waterer:
About 6 inches from the bottom of the pipe (the cap is about 4 inches deep) drill a hole using a drill bit with a circular saw blade attached to it. This bit cuts a circle, a hole in the pipe. The hole should be just a bit bigger than the nipple valve. The valve has threads on it so that you can insert it into the hole and screw it in. The bit I used was the same size as the valve because the next size up in the bit department was bigger than the valve. So, I used the drill and bit to wallow out the hole some by just drilling around the edge until it was large enough. Being that I have small hands and not enough strength to manhandle much more than a small goat- I gripped the valve with a pair of vice grips so that I had enough leverage to screw in the valve. This is the hardest part- which was not that hard.
After the valve is in, the pipe needs to be cleaned to prepare them for the plumbers cement and putty. If the cap and pipe are not cemented together the water will leak out. Also, the valve needs plumber’s putty to keep it from leaking. First, I cleaned the pipe and cap with orange oil and vinegar to get all the dirt off. The orange oil was followed by alcohol so that the surface would be super clean and dry faster. When you are trying to glue anything, dirt and moisture are not your friend.
For the valve: scope out about a quarter’s worth of putty and roll it into a snake (think play-dough and preschool).
Wrap the snake around the valve where it meets the pipe. Then, press the putty down pressing out all air bubbles and smoothing the edges. There were no directions on my tub I just had to guess at it. Also, I thought I would have to wait until it hardened then I read on the tub that it never hardens. So, I wasn’t really sure if this would work, but it did.
I did the same thing on the inside of the pipe- just to be certain. This is what the other end of the water valve looks like. As you can see, there are threads and a screen to keep debris out of the water valve.
Whereas the plumbers putty was labeled as completely harmless, the cement was plastered with warnings. One of the warnings was not to breath the fumes. I find it sad that that warning had to be printed. The fumes are awful and it was obvious that I should not stand too close. The lid of the cement has a little ball on it for spreading. Generously spread the cement on the pipe all the way around.
Do the same on the bottom cap. Then put the bottom cap on the pipe, you may need to use a hammer to tap the cap down. DO NOT glue the top cap on, this is where you will fill the water later.
An ingredient recap-
- PVC pip of selected length and weight
- cap for pipe
- plumber’s putty
- plumber’s cement
- water drinking valve
- orange oil cleaner.
- drill bit with circular saw blade
- vice grips
Once all the pieces and joints are clean and dried, now is the time to fill the waterer up! Simply remove the top cap (the one you did NOT glue on) and fill with a water hose.
As we have used these waterers, we have found that they work best in pens with a single pig. With multiple pigs, even with multiple waterers, they fight over the favorite waterer and this gets ugly. So, if you are raising a feeder pig or using a pig for garden tilling in a mobile pen, these work great.